Rio and Lima – 2 great South American Cities; Sarah and James

We seem to be non-stop through South America and we both feel that we need much longer on this continent to explore it properly but after our really busy time in Argentina we were looking forward to some chill out time in Rio on the beach.

Errrr……don’t think so. We arrived from Iguassu to our hostel in Leblon and actually the hostel was pretty nice but our room was right outside a nightclub which pretty much shook the bed until 6am every morning. Ohhhhhh and what was worse, the weather was seriously crap and rained every day during our stay in Rio.

But, we’re totally used to the rubbish weather now and rather than trying to sleep through the noise James and I decided just to join in.

After 2 weeks in Argentina we were slowly starting to get to grips with the language only to land in brazil and our Spanish being pretty useless as “we don’t speak no Portuguese” but luckily the Brazilians in Rio spoke pretty good English and also the locals are super friendly, in fact I don’t think I have met such friendly people.

We first experienced this on our 1st day. As it was tipping it down all day, whilst walking round Leblon we spotted a gym so we thought we’d get some exercise and do a work out. Basically from the moment we walked in to the moment we left we were totally looked after. We were hooked up with a personal trainer called Bruno who put us in a running class, then put us on a step machine (as we told him we were doing the Inca Trail) and then helped us out with some weights and not only that, gave us loads of recommendations for things to do in Rio. The gym was also amazing, 6 floors, with a spa at the top and an outside swimming pool where we swam in the rain.

After the gym, it was time to drink. We thought we’d drink and stay awake as long as possible (even though we were super tired) so we started off in the hostel bar. Unlike us stingy English, the measurements of rum that bar tender was serving us was ridiculous. We got talking to 3 English people who live in Jersey, Ryan and Julie and their friend Frankie. After a few drinks with them they persuaded us to go to an area in Rio called Lapa which is a famous night spot in Rio with great live music and a good samba scene. After getting a recommendation from the bar tender in the hostel, the 5 of us hopped in a taxi to a place called Rio Scenarium. We arrived there just as the heavens opened again after 1am and the live music was in full swing. The place had 3 floors and was decorated with antiques and movie set props, it was awesome. We got back about 4am and I can definitely say I slept amazingly.

The next morning I woke at 9am and I had the most horrendous hangover (a long time since I have had one) and I can safely say I spent all day in bed. Although James wasn’t as bad as me, he also spent all day in bed.

The next day we were lucky enough to move to a quieter room which was bliss as it meant we got some sleep. But, although it was cloudy the rain had stopped so we thought we had better do some of the touristy stuff. As we only had 1 day left we decided to go up the Pao de Azucar (the sugar loaf mountain) as the view was supposed to be better than the view from the Christ the Redeemer (the big famous statue) but before we did that we went for some breakfast round the corner from our hostel.  It was the best breakfast we ever had, loads of different breads, preserves, scrambled eggs, ham, cheese, orange juice, such a feast but not cheap, but worth it. It was also a great place to people watch as Leblon is a really nice neighbourhood; as it was a Sunday morning there were people everywhere walking their what I call “designer dogs”. Steph, your grooming business would do wonders here.

Anyway, we got a local bus to the sugar loaf mountain which was pretty easy and then went up the cable car to view Rio. Once we got to the very top, a thick fleece and a woolly hat would have gone a long way here as it was very windy and pretty cold but was worth it.

The following day there was good news and bad news. The good, the sun was out, the bad, we were going to be sitting on a bus for 7 hours heading to Sao Paulo for our flight to Lima. The bus was originally eventful as a lady was kicking off for some reason and we had the police on the bus, exciting. Then when we arrived in Sao Paulo we decided to stay in an airport hotel as our flight wasn’t until very early the next morning only to get in a taxi from the bus station where the driver got us completely lost and we couldn’t communicate to him which was so frustrating.  But after what took double the time the driver asked some locals for directions and we made it to our cheapo hotel.

After 6 hours on a plane to Lima we arrived at our hostel Inka Frog which was heavenly peaceful compared to Rio. We’re currrently in Lima now, and we’re staying in an area called Miraflores (which we were recommended) and we really like the area. There are loads of nice restaurants and fancy casinos but also loads of lovely parks and it’s right on the pacific ocean.

Miraflores has an open top bus sightseeing tour and considering neither of us had actually ever been on one (not even in London) we thought it would be fun. The bus took us round the area and it made James and I like it even more, especially on the sea front where there are some very posh hotels and also people paragliding off the cliffs.

We had met a girl in Cordoba who lives in Lima and told us to get in touch when we arrived and she would take us out. So I contacted Belka, and luckily she was free and so last night Belka took us to a restaurant which served great Peruvian food. At the restaurant Belka helped us with the best food to order and I had stuffed pepper filled with beef served with creamy potatoes and James had pork ribs with rice and beans (a proper Guesty dish). Belka gave us a taste of her dish which was what I thought was some sort of steak only to find out afterwards it was cows heart. Nice!!! I also tried the famous local cocktail, Pisco Sour, only made in Peru and made from local sour lemons. Yummy!

Belka had then booked us tickets to see a traditional Peruvian dance show. It was so spectacular. The dancers performed lots of different routines that represented different regional dances throughout Peru, and it was all danced to a live band. The costumes were so colourful and for each dance there was a completely different costume and theme. My favourite dance was the Marinera which is a romantic dance between a couple and involves much waving of a handkerchief. It was so good, the crowd wanted more. Belka was great and told us about all the different dances and she herself performs these dances, in particular the Marinera. In between each Act, the audience were given chance to dance to the live band. Many people were doing the Salsa and I was very tempted to get up and join in but though my lack of Salsa experience would make me look like a right fool.

We felt so privileged to be taken to something that was so local and so cultural and it was also great to have Belka with us, who speaks the language and also speaks English perfectly. In particular when getting a taxi to the venue and back again as even Belka wouldn’t get in the local taxis as they are so dodgy here.

We fly to Cuzco tomorrow where it is one of the highest cities in the world, sitting at nearly 4km above sea level so we have our fingers crossed than neither of us are effected by the altitude.

Speak soon

Sarah and James xxxxxxxxxx